Abstract: On the basis of comparative analysis of the characteristics of two kinds of fiber of cashmere and stretched wool, the feasibility and practicability of processing cashmere products under the condition of different blending ratio of stretched wool and cashmere were discussed. Its main purpose is to maintain the product's performance, feel and style, and use the stretched and refined wool part instead of cashmere to reduce the cost of the product. In this paper, cashmere and stretched wool with similar fineness were selected and processed in different mixing ratios. The effects of spinning, weaving and finishing process parameters on product performance were studied, and optimal selection was made to determine the optimal process. Based on the factors such as the performance, feel, style and cost of the finished product, the different kinds of cashmere products are evaluated and the appropriate plan is selected.

With the development of the textile industry, consumers are increasingly demanding textile materials. People no longer deliberately emphasize pure-woven fabrics, paying more attention to the excellent performance and better cost performance of textiles and garments. Cashmere as a raw material has excellent performance but high cost, making it possible to study cashmere substitutes. After the wool is stretched and refined, it has cashmere-like properties and can be blended and mixed in cashmere for spinning. After blending the stretched and refined wool fiber with the cashmere, the product has the softness of the velvet, the smoothness of the silk, and can make up for the defects of the cashmere. The biggest feature is that the cashmere products are made to the high-yarn and worsted products. One step to meet the development needs of today's clothing thin and light. Since wool and cashmere are basically composed of keratin, many properties such as moisture absorption, dyeing, natural curling, friction properties, shrinking, stretching, gloss, density, and warmth retention all have common characteristics. However, wool and cashmere differ in terms of fineness, length, curl, stretch, scale structure characteristics, and hygroscopicity. By analyzing and researching the blending ratio of stretched and refined wool and cashmere, the optimum blending ratio of the style close to pure cashmere products was determined.

1 raw material matching

1.1 cashmere

Cashmere is a rare and valuable textile material. Cashmere products have a unique style of soft, smooth, soft, warm and comfortable. Selected cashmere fiber: length 28mm, fineness 16μm, moisture regain 14.5%.

1.2 stretched fine wool

Stretched and refined wool fibers have the performance characteristics of some common wool, silk and cashmere fibers, and the fabrics also have similar characteristics: for example, the fineness of the stretched and refined wool fabric is excellent because the fibers are formed in a polygonal cross-sectional shape. The scale structure of the stretched and refined wool fiber is velvet-like, so that the stretched and refined wool fabric also has a slippery feel and the like. All in all, the stretched and refined wool has the characteristics of a typical cashmere smooth feel and silky luster, and has some qualities that replace cashmere.

At present, the stretched and refined wool commonly used in the market is processed by imported stretching equipment. The trade name is Optim. The shortcoming of this product is that the fiber has little curl, the fiber is relatively static during the spinning process, the cohesion is poor, and the spinning is difficult. Larger, and the product feels less full. Therefore, in this paper, the stretched and refined wool obtained by stretching and refining 70 Australian wools with domestic stretching equipment is used. The raw material maintains a relatively natural curl while being drawn, and the cohesion between the fibers and the elasticity of the product are well ensured.

In the experiment, the tops after the stretching treatment were manually cut (by 50 mm) into loose fibers. The fibers have an average length of 39 mm and an average fineness of 17 to 18 μm.

2 process selection

2.1 Spinning

Due to the selection of shorter cashmere fiber raw materials, the spinning process has selected a suitable cotton spinning short-spinning spinning processing equipment. The spinning process is:

Artificial layup and oiling→Small and wool machine open mix 1→Small and wool machine open mix 2→Small card combing 1→Small card combing 2→Small draw frame and 1→small draw frame And 2 → small draw frame and 3 → small spinning machine spinning → plying → knitting → finishing.

2.2 finishing

Since the finishing process has a great relationship with the performance of taking, the choice of finishing method is crucial. Conventional fleece refers to the repeated action of the cashmere sweater under certain temperature and humidity conditions and the action of chemical additives, resulting in the warp and weft shrinkage of the cashmere sweater, the area becomes smaller, and the weight per unit area increases from the yarn. The prominent fiber produces a layer of fluffy velvet on the surface of the velvet sweater, which makes the velvet shirt full of appearance, soft, smooth, body-bone, and improved in color. The quality of the velvet sweater after shrinking is obviously different from that before shrinking. The weight per unit area of ​​the shirt is increased, so that the warmth and elasticity are improved.

Appropriate finishing of the cashmere blend fabric can greatly improve the softness, smoothness, elasticity, drape and fluffiness of the product. Moderate fluffing makes the sweater look more beautiful, feels richer and softer, and its warmth is significantly improved. Thus, the fluffiness of the fabric directly affects the style of the knitted sweater.

Finishing the woven fabric, the treatment process is divided into 3 steps: 1 nits: the semi-finished product is soaked in warm water with a detergent (usually 4 to 10 min), the bath ratio is 1:10, then the velvet, the handle揉搓 1~2min, then clean, de-dry; 2 soft: add 2% (owf) softener in warm water at 50 °C, then soak the cashmere sweater for 30min, dry; 3 in the range of 80 ~ 110 °C Ironing.

3 product performance and testing

3.1 yarn properties

The above process design is based on the same spinning process and yarn structural parameters, the specifications and tensile properties of the cashmere/stretched wool yarns tested, as shown in Table 1.

As can be seen from Table 1, the yarn strength increases as the content of the stretched and refined wool increases. This may be due to the fact that the stretched and refined wool is longer and thicker than the cashmere, and the yarn can be dried during the spinning process. Since the frictional properties of the stretched and refined wool are changed compared with the original wool, the friction factor is increased, and the fiber cohesion can be increased during the yarn forming process. Although the stretched wool is reduced in curl, the natural curl of the wool is still increasing. It plays an active role in the cohesion between fibers. At the same time, as the content of the stretched and refined wool increases, the elongation at break of the yarn increases, and the flexibility of the yarn increases, so that the fabric is softer. From this point of view, it is possible to improve the performance of cashmere fabrics by using stretched and refined wool and cashmere blends.

3.2 Fabric Specifications

The first group of samples used strands as the raw material for weaving. Since cashmere was mostly used for knitting sweaters, a knitting weaving method was selected. As a comparison, the 20/80 woven fabric with the lowest cashmere content was selected. Knitted fabric specifications: organization: weft needle tissue; feeding method: double feeding; width: 20 ~ 30cm; woven fabric specifications: tissue: 2/2 twill weave, width: 20cm; nickname: 98 (perç­˜ 2 into); wearing a comprehensive way: pass through.

The second group uses a single yarn as a weaving raw material, and a knitting weaving method is selected. Knitwear specifications: organization: weft needle tissue; feeding method: single feeding; finished shape: socks.

3.3 performance test

3.3.1 Abrasion resistance

This paper uses a fabric flat mill. The second tissue sample is brought into contact with the abrasive (grinding wheel) under certain conditions and moved relative to each other to subject the sample to wear in multiple directions. The abrasion resistance was evaluated by comparing the changes before and after the abrasion of the fabric. The carbonized grinding wheel selected for this test was medium A-150, and the weight was pressurized by 500 g.

3.3.1.1 Weight loss per unit area

The number of rubbing times was set to 50, and the weight loss per unit area of ​​the fabric after rubbing was calculated, as shown in Table 2.

It can be seen from Table 2 that the weight loss per unit area of ​​several fabrics decreases with the increase of tensile refining wool content, reflecting the inverse relationship between the abrasion resistance of the fabric and the cashmere content.

3.3.1.2 Number of grinding wheels when worn

Rub the fabric with a grinding wheel until the fabric is ground out of the hole and record the number of turns of the grinding wheel, as shown in Table 3.

The more the number of grinding wheels, the more wearable the fabric. As shown in Table 3, as the cashmere content decreases, the abrasion resistance of the fabric increases, and the corresponding relationship is consistent with the previous test.

3.3.1.3 Analysis of test results

It can be seen from Table 2 and Table 3 that as the cashmere content is reduced, the abrasion resistance of the fabric is improved. This is because the cashmere fiber has fine fineness and low strength, and the content of the cashmere directly affects the performance of the yarn and the fabric. Moreover, since the cashmere fiber is relatively short, the yarn is often extended at one end in the yarn forming process. In the abrasion resistance test, repeated rubbing of the yarn by the grinding wheel causes some of the cashmere fiber to be detached from the yarn and fall off. Therefore, the higher the stretched and refined wool content, the smaller the loss.

As a comparison of cashmere/stretched fine wool/twisted silk (30/40/30), due to the long length of the silk, it acts as a binding hairiness during the yarn forming process, reducing the hair loss, so its unit The area weight loss is lower than that of cashmere/stretched fine wool (30/70). From this point of view, it can be seen that the addition of silk is beneficial to improve the wear resistance of the cashmere blend fabric.

In terms of improving the abrasion resistance of the fabric, the stretched and refined wool and silk have played an active role, making up for the lack of pure cashmere. Therefore, the development of cashmere blended products to replace cashmere products has positive significance and feasibility.

3.3.2 bursting strength

In this paper, the ball-type burst tester was used to test the bursting strength index.

The sample of the second group is fixed in the ring of the cloth, and the ball is vertically topped to the sample at a certain speed until the top is broken, and the instrument automatically displays the bursting strength. Six samples of each fabric were taken, and the bursting strength of each sample was measured, and then averaged. At the same time, in this test, the same specifications of pure stretched and refined wool (R/L, 0/100) fabrics were added as comparative samples to provide reference for the bursting strength test of different blending ratios. The result is shown in Figure 1.

It can be seen from Fig. 1 that as the cashmere content decreases, the bursting strength gradually decreases, and the minimum value occurs when the cashmere/stretched wool is 30/70, and then the cashmere content decreases and the bursting strength increases. The tensile strength of the purely stretched and refined wool fabric is greater than that of the pure cashmere fabric, which is the result of the difference in the length of the blended fibers of the different components. The strength of the two kinds of pure textiles is higher than that of the blended fabrics, because the difference in fiber length of the pure textiles is small, the cohesion between the fibers is large, and the bursting strength of the fabric is large. As the fibers of other components are mixed, the difference in length of the fibers increases, which affects the bursting strength. According to the test, the bursting strength of the cashmere/stretched fine wool blend ratio is 30/70, and the blending ratio should be avoided during the spinning and weaving process. The bursting strength of the cashmere/stretched fine wool/twist (30/40/30) group reached the maximum, indicating that the addition of silk can greatly improve the cohesiveness of the fiber and increase the fiber strength, thereby increasing the bursting strength of the fabric.

3.3.3 pilling

In this paper, the circular trajectory method is used. The test method is to raise the fabric sample with a nylon brush under certain conditions, then use the fabric abrasive to make the sample pilling, and then compare the pilling sample with the standard and evaluate the granule. Pilling level.

3.3.3.1 Knitted fabrics and woven fabrics

Compared with the cashmere/stretched fine wool 20/80 woven fabric of the first group of test materials, compared with the cashmere/stretched fine wool 30/70 knitted fabric, the pilling resistance of the woven fabric can be clearly observed after rubbing. Strong. This is because the fabric is tightly packed and the ball is not easy to pilling. When the compact fabric is subjected to external force friction, the fibers are difficult to be detached from each other, and the surface of the fabric is less likely to produce hair. The already formed fluff is not easily released to the surface of the fabric due to the large frictional force of the fibers.

3.3.3.2 Single yarn knit fabric and strand knitted fabric

Comparing the first set of samples with the second set of samples, the average grade of the strand knitted fabric was 3.5, while the average grade of the single-knitted fabric was 2.5. Strand fabrics are generally less prone to pilling than single yarn fabrics, because during the twisting process, the chance of the fibers protruding from the pile ends can be reduced, thereby reducing the objective conditions for forming the hairballs.

3.3.3.4 Knitted fabrics with different blending ratios

The sample after the second group of tests was compared with the sample card, and the sample level was evaluated. Depending on the visual inspection, the pilling properties of the six samples were close to each other, both in the range of 2.0 to 2.5, and the pilling resistance was poor.

The shorter the fiber, the more severe the pilling. This is because the shorter the fiber, the more the fiber ends in the pile yarn, the more the fiber ends of the yarn and the finished surface are woven into the finished product, and the fiber end will be revealed after external friction, resulting in more "Mao" and "Ball". In addition, the cohesive force and friction between the shorter fibers are small, and the fibers are easily slipped off the yarn, thereby increasing the chance of pilling. Fine fiber is easier to pilling than coarse fiber. Because the same count of yarn, the finer the fiber, the more the number of fibers in the yarn, the more the number of hairiness of the yarn, and the thicker and stiffer the fiber, the erect The fiber end of the finished surface is less likely to entangle into a ball.

The stretched and refined wool is close to the fineness of the cashmere and has a long length. In the blending process, the problem that the length of the cashmere is short and the head end is easily exposed can be improved.

4 fabric feel evaluation

In this paper, the rank evaluation method in the subjective evaluation method is adopted. Firstly, several inspectors judge the fabric style level according to their respective feelings, and the fabric style level is queued from high to low, and the queuing sequence number is 1, 2, 3...,n, which is the rank number (n is the total number of fabric samples). Then, the rank digits of each fabric are added by each inspector to obtain the total rank digits. Finally, the quality of these fabric styles is compared according to the total rank digits, and the results of sensory evaluation are obtained, as shown in Table 4. Show. Group 1 sample: 5 kinds of samples are 32 tex × 2 strands spun from raw materials of different blending ratios, and woven into a woven fabric; Group 2 samples: 6 samples The 32tex single yarn spun from the raw materials of different blending ratios is fed into the woven woven fabric.

The first group feel rating is: 50/50>100/0>30/70>40/60>20/80, and the second group feel rating is: 50/50=40/60>30/70=20/ 80>100/0>30/40/30.

Combining the feel of the two groups, the best style is cashmere/stretched fine wool 50/50.

The subjective evaluation method has the advantages of quickness and simplicity, but lacks theoretical guidance and quantitative description. From the evaluation process, there is great instability. Concentrated industry experts test samples under certain environmental conditions. Although it is the most commonly used evaluation method, it is evaluated according to the experience of the opponent's feelings, which is related to the subjective influence factors such as the individual's psychological and cultural qualities. It is impossible to exclude subjective arbitrariness. It is only a description of the classification of good, general, and bad, and cannot accurately reflect the characteristics of the hand. Limited to the test conditions, this evaluation only qualitative evaluation of several fabrics, subjectively reflects the different blending style than the fabric feel.

Using the subjective evaluation method, the fabric style is assessed by hand, which is in line with the shopping habits of the contemporary people. Therefore, from the commercial point of view of developing products, this test method has practical significance. It can be seen from the evaluation results that the evaluation of the feel of different blended fabrics is different from that of the experts, and there is almost no close result. It can be seen that the difference in the blending ratio has little effect on the fabric feel. The possibility of replacing cashmere fabrics.

5 Conclusion

1 In terms of mechanical properties, the more the stretched and refined wool content, the better the mechanical properties of the fabric. The presence of stretched and refined wool can improve the shortage of traditional pure cashmere products and improve the wearing durability of the fabric.

2 From the feel of the feel of the fabric, the softness of the pure cashmere fabric is good, and because of the rigidity of the stretched and refined wool, the fabric exhibits the advantages of good elasticity and body bone, so the blending fabric is not purer than the pure fabric. Cashmere fabrics are inferior.

3 From the wearing performance of cashmere products themselves, it is not as high as the average consumer thinks that the purity of cashmere is as high as possible. Adding other materials can improve the defects of traditional cashmere products which are easy to wear, easy to deform and easy to pilling. Through comprehensive evaluation of various tests, it is considered that R/L50/50 and 40/60 have better product performance, which can reduce the strength of the fabric while reducing the cashmere content, and maintain the silky feel and silky luster of the cashmere fabric. feature.

Based on the above discussion, the development of cashmere blended fabrics, the replacement of pure cashmere fabrics with stretched and refined wool and cashmere blends, is of great significance in reducing the use of cashmere, environmental protection, reducing costs and improving the wearing performance of cashmere fabrics.

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